12/25/2023 0 Comments Zoom mode dot by dot![]() The highest resolution HDTV has 1080 lines top to bottom (1080i) which gives you the best picture quality.The "p" means all the pixels get refreshed at the same time. Some display 720 lines of resolution top to bottom (720p), which is more resolution than Standard screens. All HDTVs, or High Definition TVs, are widescreen (16:9 ratio) but they come in two versions.They are usually box shaped (4:3 ratio) but some come with a widescreen display (16:9 ratio). SD, or Standard Definition, TVs display 480 lines of resolution top to bottom (480p).The perception of depth is attained through synchronized viewing of separate images by each eye.Īn explanation of screen shapes, resolutions and definitions ![]() Then, some programs are in 3D TV adding the illusion of depth to normal 2D video to provide a realistic three-dimensional viewing experience. The more pixels, the better the picture quality or definition. But that’s it’s that my basic for Zoom chats.Your TV's screen resolution determines how many dots or pixels make up the image you see. The checklist is only good if you read it and follow it which at times I’m guilty of not doing and then, like yesterday, I’m not always in focus. I have a checklist taped to the tripod I use for Zoom chats of all of these settings as I do change them when I’m shooting video. In the Movie Shooting Menu (see above), I make sure that the Focus mode is set to AF-F and the AF-area mode is set to Auto Area AF (required for face/eye detection). This is a very narrow depth of focus so to keep me sharp (I move a bit when I’m talking) requires a couple of other settings. Shooting with the 50f1.4AFS at f/1.4 is how I have the background all out of focus. Lastly, I have the Z plugged in AC via the EH-5c. And this changes with the Z 7II / Z 6II with eye detection working with video. All I can assume is that since we’re not actually “recording” video while doing a Zoom chat, it’s working (these are just my observations). Even though it says “eye detection doesn’t work in video mode” it seems to be working great. With the 50f1.4AFS set to M/A, I make sure in the Custom Settings I have #a4 set as you see above. The WB I set manually each session otherwise (like above) I turn a bit red (settings are only good if you remember to set each one each time!). The camera for Zoom is set to Aperture Priority with Auto ISO taking care of exposure changed. I start with the Z set to Movie Mode so I have a clean HDMI out (settings on the top and bottom of the image are removed). I try to keep it all real simple so I can duplicate it. At night, I use the Promaster Bi-LED 504B light as my light source. The one on the right I flag to knock down its intensity. Lighting are two windows on my right and left. For the sound, I simply use the MacBook mic. The Z 6 is connected to the MacBook Pro via Chert 4K.C HDMI card plugged into the HDMI port on the Z 6 (via HDMI cable) and USBc port on the MacBook (shows up in Zoom Video preference as Chert 4K so select it). My gear is real simple, I use a Z 6 / FTZ w/ 50f1.4AFS lens (rather than the computer camera). Since then, two other Zoom VPTs have asked the same questions so I thought I would share my basic Zoom gear and settings. He asked during the Zoom chat what I was doing for lighting. ![]() A Zoom Virtual Private Tutoring from two weeks ago asked what gear I used for the Zoom because I looked so sharp and the background was so out of focus so I really popped. Many are with photographers with some great questions seeking advice (and like yesterday’s chat with Dave, I learned some great things in return!). Like many of you, I’ve been spending a fair amount of time in front of a camera for Zoom chats.
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